No words are necessary--except to say that it takes a very secure person to share the inside of her pantry.

Thanks to my friend, Jill, and to my own nosy self, I found a partial solution. One day, I had been invited to lunch at Jill’s house, and she got up to find some cracker or something. When she opened her pantry doors (she has two), it was as if a light from heaven were shining, lighting a solution to my own messy pantry: shelves added to the inside of the doors!

She pointed out to me that there is a good 12-14 inches between a closed pantry door and the shelves–at least, that is true of my pantry. So, in problem-solving mode, she went looking for the shelves that would fit and take advantage of that space. Brilliant!

Luckily, there are brilliant people already working to bring us products just like we need. Thank you, ClosetMaid.

This was my mini-project for the day. It took under 45 minutes. And I am S-L-O-W. The hardest part was finding the right anchors for the door. (Remember: If you screw into a hollow door, the screw will work its way out, sometimes gradually, sometimes not, making your door a mess and your shelves useless. So, use anchors.) Did you know they actually make 6-panel-door anchors? More brilliance!

The steps were on the package for the shelving unit that came from Home Depot. I also needed a pencil, level, power drill/driver, and anchors.

First, I clipped the shelf holders to the shelf unit. Then, I positioned the shelf, checked the level, and marked the holes with a pencil. Next, I drilled holes big enough to allow the anchors to rest snugly inside and inserted the anchors. (I used a hammer for a bit of gentle persuasion. If you use aggressive persuasion, you’ll either bend the anchor, ruin your door, or scare your children. Be nice.)

Once the anchors are in, you are practically home free.

Now, hold up the shelf and screw the screws through the clippy holders and into the anchors. (This is one of those times when it would be oh-so-wonderful to have an assistant. Or just another hand.) Tighten. I had to follow my own instincts about where to position the screws due to the size of my door. Just try to get the most solid, even fit possible. That is, avoid the recesses and the panels.

That is one of two teenagers (above, right) that live in my house. They used to be small and cute. Now, they are big, but I still like ‘em!

Ta-Dah! Ready for loading.

Who knew I had 3 boxes of lemon-poppy seed muffin mix?

Did you hear that? I think it was my pantry breathing…Creepy, but you understand. Don’t you? And yes, I know what you are thinking. The shelves really don’t hold a ton of stuff. It’s true. But it really did help!

The mess on the floor is a mini-project for another day. First, I need to go steal another idea. Anything you’d like to share?

Have a great weekend!

I’m linking this post to:

and also hoping to reconnect with some Company Girls over coffee!

I have posted some of these pictures before, so forgive any repetition. Hopefully, from here on out, I’ll be a little better organized (with photos) and focused (not lazy).

The flooring was hired out; everything else will be done “in house,” unless I tell you otherwise.

First, some before:

Former DR Chandelier--Pay no attention to the Christmas decor. It was my attempt to cover as much shiny brass as possible.

New Chandelier. I am much happier. Notice the floor-to-ceiling green walls in the background. Loved the color--just not in this room.

Walls had to be primed. At this point, I still wanted a green--just a lighter, brighter green...And I was considering a board and batten wall treatment like we had done in our bedroom.

I mentioned the idea of board and batten to my husband, who loves doing projects…Well, he loves them when they are finished! I decided to go ahead and decide on a green (no easy task), painting from about five feet off the floor and up. I figured we would get to the woodwork this summer…

Ah…The perfect green (for me!) It is called “Jekyll Crane Cottage Green” by Valspar. And I love it. It took three samples before I got the right one, and honestly, this green is much nicer in person. Notice the lovely fabric? I bought it first. I picked it because of all of the color, the soft floral print, and the linen feel. But, then…Plans change. Later, you will see what I mean.

So, I painted.

I tape because I can not paint a straight edge. And no, I don't drink.

Then, I left town for the weekend to visit my parents. When I came home, my husband who is really wonderful had done this:

Board and batten

OK. He had not painted it. The man does not paint. It’s possibly his greatest fault. It is forgivable, though…Notice the cap rail? It definitely gives a more finished, slightly formal look.

More pictures:

Baseboard detail

The only shocking thing was that the carpet disappeared! Shocking, but totally fine. The carpet was in bad shape, and we had talked about replacing all of the first floor with wood. I just didn’t know we were actually going to do it. But we did. More on that later.

Next installment: How to Make Your Dog a Little Wacky: Install Hardwood Flooring

See ya’!

Remember these?

My son’s amazement must have impressed my mother-in-law because when she updated and put in a push-button telephone, she wrapped up the dial-up and gave it to Max as a kind of gift. Well, he loved it but didn’t know what to do with it, so it sat in a box in his closet for a few years.

Last spring, I did what any good mother would do. I confiscated it. (With permission, of course.) I had the perfect spot–my basement laundry/sewing room. It had a phone jack a few inches from the floor–good, but not right for the big wall-mounted phone. My idea was to relocate the jack to a higher, appropriate level and put Max’s gift to use.

Where the old jack was...

I immediately went to Google. (Have I mentioned how much I love Google?) I found lots of help, but one site stood out:   Danny Lipford. This site offers an amazing amount of information on all

Where I wanted the jack to be...Use your imagination.

kinds of home improvement topics.  Check out his information if you are interested in doing this project.

It really was an easy project that cost less than $5. All I had to buy was the jack with a face plate made for wall phones. I purchased extra wire but did not need it.

The only thing I really had to purchase.

Before beginning, I took another telephone off the hook. I had read that, though there is not much current in a phone line, there is some current, and that if a call came in while I was touching a wire, I could get shocked. True or not, why risk it?

First, I removed the screws that held the current jack in place. When I pulled it out, I could see that the wire came from above. Yes! I loosened the 4 screws that held the four colored (green, black, red, yellow) wires from the phone line in place.

This is what I found behind the old jack cover plate. I could not get the box out because it was (and is) nailed sideways into the stud. There will have to be some creative drywall patching here later.

Next, I cut out a small square of drywall where I wanted to hang the wall phone. The hole was only about 2 x 2 inches. I just needed enough room to reach in and pull up on the wire. With a little gentle coaxing, and only one bad word (!), the line came right up.

Found the wire! It was about four feet directly above the old jack.

New location with successfully-fished wire coming out of my not-so-neatly cut hole. (This will be behind the telephone!)

Yea! Ready for the fun stuff.

The new phone jack/mounting plate had two parts. The part that fastened to the wall and held the wires that made the connection and the face plate that basically held the wall phone to the wall. I followed the directions on the mounting plate, first separating the two parts; then, I fed the four colored wires through holes and prepared to attach them to their corresponding screws. Everything was color-coded. Easy as could be.

New mounting plate--before wire from the wall is connected.

The wire from the wall has been fed through some holes in the plate. (The wire from the wall is really four wires, bound together.) Match the colors, and you will be fine!

Wire from the wall. See the four colored wires inside the wrapping?

One tip from Danny Lipford (home improvement guru) was to (after gently bending a small hook into the bare wire) hook the wire so that the wire hooks around the screw in a clockwise direction. That way, when you turn the screw (righty tighty) to secure the wire, it doesn’t fight to come off of the screw.

I used wall anchors to secure the back plate of the jack to the drywall. This telephone will not get a lot of use, but it is pretty heavy, and I did not want it to pull the screws out of the wall. Next, I reattached the face plate (according to the package directions.)

Finally, I plugged the phone into the jack, being sure the screw on the face plate fit securely to the grooves on the back of the phone.

Project complete! (Except for that little drywall patch that still needs to be completed to cover the old jack and exploratory hole.)

And yes. I then used my cell phone to call my home. The phone worked! It might not be the prettiest color (red would have been perfect), but it is definitely the coolest phone in the house–as long as you do not need to call someone quickly.

I miss my caller ID. Not that I would ever screen my calls, mind you...

Next, I need to pretty up the wall around the phone. That’s some fun for another day!

Ugly faucet before the face lift...Pay no attention to the rust and ick. I promise it was hiding underneath the cover plate!

I confess to hating my kitchen sink. Stainless can be nice, but I believe my stainless sink is the lowest grade the builder could buy. After we developed a leak around the equally ugly faucet, I began to plan my kitchen re-do. (Of course, that ain’t happenin’.) It just didn’t fit into the budget. But a new faucet did! (Caveat:  Measure the old faucet before buying the new one. When in doubt, just take the old one with you for the purchase.)

Replacing a faucet is a fairly easy DIY project–if you have the right tools or some ingenuity. Here is a quick how to:

Supplies:

• wrenches (try to use a basin wrench. It is designed for this occasion, though we didn’t have success. ***See below.)
• WD40 (maybe)
• pliers (our faucet came with its own tool for tightening the new faucet)
• bucket (just in case)
• old towels

1. The most crucial step is to turn off the water under the sink. Do not forget to do this. Forgetting could ruin your day. While you are down there, empty the contents and clean the cabinet on the inside. This is a great time to invest in a bin to hold items. Then, everything can be easily removed should you ever have need. (I hope you don’t!)
   

   See the valves in the back? These will shut off or turn on your water for the sink. Remember: Righty Tighty (Close); Lefty Loosey (Open)

2. Disconnect the water hoses from the old faucet. Have the bucket handy to catch any residual water in these hoses. If the water flows freely, you have a problem. See MOST CRUCIAL STEP, above.
3. Loosen the nut that connects the old faucet to the sink. ***Try the basin wrench. Try spraying the nut with WD40. Be sure the children are out of ear-shot. Try for two days. When all else fails (here’s the ingenuity part), use your handy, dandy Dremel to cut through the nut. Voila! Easy as pie.
   

   Ugly Faucet Before--Yep. That's it. The dreaded nut, cemented by rust. WAY up between the two basins, in the very back, where you have to contort your body to see--much less to loosen. That easy as pie comment? Sarcasm.

4. Remove old faucet. Gag. Clean sink thoroughly. If it is stainless, try Barkeeper’s Friend. Otherwise, use the recommended cleaner for your type of sink.
   

   Out with the Old...

   

   Pure Ick--Ugly Sink. Time for Barkeeper's Friend.

   

   Final Farewell to Ugly, Sad, Leaky Faucet

5. Prepare new faucet for installation, according to its package directions. Don’t forget the water hoses. Be careful when tightening! Now is not the time to over-do it. Stripped nuts do not go well with plumbing. Or any project, for that matter.
   

   New, Shiny, Non-Leaky Faucet--Still the same old sink, yet somehow, it doesn't bother me as much!

6. Turn back on water at the shut off valves, and check carefully for leaks.
   

   Not-So-Glamorous View of New Faucet

7. Return neatly organized bin of stuff under the sink.
   

   Under Sink Storage Bin

   

   Yes. It is the InSinkErator. Best disposal EVER. Also, kind of pricey. I think around $300, but it was money well spent about three years earlier.

8. Enjoy the new look! It does not change your sink, but it might make it more tolerable until a new one is in the budget.

Isn't it wonderful? My sink feels years younger!

One tip:  Cover the drains with cardboard or tape or something. That way you don’t have to worry about aforementioned ick, nuts, or tools ending up in the drain.

This might seem daunting, but it really is relatively easy to do (OK…My husband did the hard, dismantling part. After the initial encounter with the rusty nut did not go well, he refused to quit until the deed was done…I was perfectly fine with that .)

I love the new faucet. I don’t hate my sink, anymore–at least, not quite as much.

Good morning! I have a riveting post about caulk but my award-winning (I need the new sarcasm mark) photos were too bad to post…Hope your Friday is fabulous and your coffee robust! (www.homesanctuary.typepad.com)

Coffee Mug

Who cares about caulk? you ask. Everyone should care about caulk. We should more than care. Without caulk, our windows would be even draftier, our back splashes would have unsightly gaps, and we would constantly be yelling at our teenagers to get out of the shower because the water is pouring into the family room. Epiphany:  Caulk is ultimately responsible for family harmony.

Caulk can also protect you from the evil mold, born when moisture seeps into places where it ought not to go.

I have tried many different kinds of caulk, usually from a squeeze tube. I thought a tube would be easier. It isn’t. This go-round, I used a two dollar caulk gun. It is not complicated, and there is no clean-up. Go for the gun. Also, I used a caulk recommended by Gary Sullivan, home improvement guru. Polyseamseal. It is awesome. Easy to use and looks great!

Caulking is not difficult, but it does take a bit of time and patience. Here’s how:

1. Remove old caulk. I used a putty knife and plastic tool that looks like a citrus peeler. Since the old caulk had crumbled and was pulling away from the tub anyway, it was fairly easy to remove.
2. Clean area thoroughly. I used a mildew removing spray. A bleach and water mix would also work. Be sure there is no mold or mildew in the crevice you will be caulking. And be careful with the fumes. All of the mildew removers seem to be pretty nasty stuff.
3. Let area dry thoroughly.
4. Cut off the tip of the caulk. Start small; you can always cut more off, but you cannot put more back on. (Profound…I know.) My $2 gun came with a secret cutter in the handle. What will they think of next?
5. Practice squeezing the trigger, pushing caulk onto a paper towel. Make opening larger, if needed.
6. Apply caulk to the gap between tub and tile walls (in my case). Use even trigger pressure, holding the gun at about a 45 degree angle.
7. Most tubs will have three sides that require caulking. Do a short side first, applying caulk end to end. Release caulk pressure so caulk doesn’t continue to ooze out while you lay the gun down (on paper towels, please!)
8. Get a couple of wet, but not dripping, paper towels. Using a damp finger (long pretty nails are a bad thing–:) ), run your finger along the bead of caulk. This forces it into the gap and gives a smooth, finished look. Carefully, clean up any leftover caulk from the tub or tile with a damp paper towel. It must be cleaned off immediately.
9. Continue the same steps for the other two sides.
10. Read the directions on the caulk you chose about how many hours or days should pass before showering. Follow those directions. I speak from experience…This isn’t the first time I’ve caulked this tub.

***TIP: Start in a corner. I am not sure why, but it is easier. Somewhere I read to fill the tub about 1/2 full of water, to weigh it down…I tried this once and found it to be a pain. And a mess. And I hurt my back since I wasn’t able to be inside the tub while I caulked. Please excuse my whining.

***Another TIP:  When you are finished, put a heavy duty nail in the end of the caulk (if it didn’t come with a cap), kind of like a bottle stopper.

***Last TIP (I promise):  After you wash your hands, be sure to put on a good quality lotion…Why is it that home repair products are so hard on your skin? I have it! Caulk with Moisturizing Lotion! I am sure it would sell.

My House--Always a Work in Progress--The outside needs some character-building, too, but our focus right now is inside.

Our house was built in 1992–nice neighborhood and great yard–but fairly nondescript. Like many houses built in the 70s, 80s, and 90s, the goal for builders seemed to be to give buyers as much square footage as was affordable, but no panache. Panache must cost more.

If you have a house (like ours) that needs a little jazzing up, first take a good look around with as much objectivity as you can muster. Do this:

• See your home’s potential. Sit in one room for a while but move to all different sides of the room. What do you love? What would you change tomorrow, if you could? Keep your ideas in a small notebook. Sketch your ideas.
• Know your style and that of your house. Just like with hair, trying to work against nature is always more challenging and costly. Trying to take an urban loft and turn it into a farmhouse might be frustrating and expensive; but adding some chic country elements are a possibility. Turning a country cottage into a contemporary space…well, that’s just wrong.
• Try to focus on one aspect so that you are not overwhelmed. Sometimes it isn’t knowing so much where to start, but merely to start. (Note:  Do take time to consider so that you do not rush and end up having to un-do or re-do something later.)
• Recognize that changes you make will impact potential future sale of the home–for better or worse. If you plan on living there for years, go for it. But still be smart. Plans change, and if you have to sell, you will not want to have to re-do everything you did. It is hard enough to make yourself repaint!
  

For almost 10 years, my husband and I have slowly been trying to add some character (or hire it out!) We chose to start (for the most part) with trimming windows. (My own hunky carpenter has done all of the windows. I think he’s pretty good!) We like a more traditional style than our home offers, but the traditional elements we are adding feel like they fit (at least, to us!) We have moved on to columns, flooring, and built-ins. We have more planned, when the budget allows, but for now, here are some ways we have added some panache.

Window with Retro-Fitted Trim

Heightened Door Frame, Added Column and Trim

Added Columns and Beadboard, Laminate Flooring and Carpet

Beadboard with Small Cap

Column One of Two

Basement Corner Built-In (sump pump hidden below)--Pay no attention to the messy shelves...

Maybe you are one of the lucky ones who bought a house that is already a home. If so, good for you! I will try hard not to be jealous. If you have to do it yourself, however, how would you add that character?

Materials Needed:

• PAPERTIGER (absolutely MUST have tool…good product demo at site)
• spray bottle with warm water
• old towels
• big sponge
• scraper (3-4 in. putty knife)

optional:

• DIF (chemical stripper; also a Zinsser product)
• Cheap liquid fabric softener (see caveat)

First, test a small area. Find a seam or a loose corner and pull. If it pulls off easily, in one big strip, stop immediately and go buy a lottery ticket. The chances are, however, that the outside layer (the “pretty” part) will barely come off the wall. If it comes off in a big piece, don’t get excited. Look closely and you will probably see another layer of white or yellowish paper and glue still lurking there, reluctant to give up its claim. If this causes any anxiety, run now to the telephone and call a paper hanger or a painter. Ask what they charge to strip paper (probably hourly), take a deep breath, and decide. If you don’t mind parting with the money, get them on your calendar and start planning your new space. If it’s not in the budget, continue reading.

I think it is easier to peel off as much of the “fancy” paper (outer layer) as possible before involving any water. Clean up is easier; plus, having the outer layer gone makes it easier for the water to penetrate. If the outer layer is stubborn, don’t despair (ha). Just go on to the PAPERTIGER step.

Pretend for a moment that the person who hung the papaer primed and sealed the wallboard first. Spray a little warm water on the backing and let it soak for a few seconds. Scrape with your putty knife, carefully refraining from plunging the corner into the drywall. If you do this, you will have to spackle and smooth before you paint. If your knife leaves a clean, smooth surface, proceed to the PAPERTIGER step.

If the paper does not budge, allow yourself a moment. Maybe some soothing tea would be appropriate. Come to terms with the idea that you will probably need to call a professional to skim-coat the wall when you are finished. (Don’t make the call yet. There are still miracles!) You will need to either use DIF or fabric softener to loosen the bond.

Using the PAPERTIGER, roll it around in circles, all around the walls, using gently pressure. You want to perforate the wallpaper, not the drywall.

After you have made your wallpaper all holey, saturate it with warm water and begin scraping. If you are unlucky, you will have to use DIF or the fabric softener for this step. If using DIF, wear rubber gloves and read the label carefully!

***Here’s my caveat on the cheap liquid fabric softener:  It might break down more than the glue, requiring skim-coating when finished. I have no proof that it does this. I have used it on many walls. Some were fine; some were not. It might depend more upon the initial wall preparation. The benefits of softener are:  It is cheap, and the room smells really good while you are working.

Eventually, the paper will all be gone! Using the sponge, wipe the wall with warm water to clean away any residual glue or chemical. Let dry completely before painting or [shriek] re-papering. (I have a room that has been “drying” for two years now…That’s a story for another day.)

Enjoy your nice, clean walls, and please think long and hard before you do anything else.

Unfortunately, in the real world, that rarely happens. (Do I sound bitter?)

I have stripped a few walls and have learned a few things to share:

1. Expect the worst. This is hard for those of us who have our cups half-full all of the time, but it is essential if you want to circumvent a complete and utter emotional breakdown. (See #7.)
2. Allow plenty of time. Do not plan to strip your kitchen paper and have a dinner party that evening. This is a very bad plan, destined for failure.
3. Be prepared to clean everything after you finish. The gooey paste will end up everywhere, turning a tile floor into a deadly weapon. You might want to invest in a shampoo guaranteed to cut through cement-like adhesive because you most definitely will be wearing whatever held your paper to the wall.
4. Always kill the electricity when you approach switches or outlets. Remover is wet and there is this wacky law of gravity that causes it to run south. Fast.  Don’t end up a Darwin Award winner.
5. Decide in advance where you will meet your hubby for supper. This will save guilt later. Even if you finish (and that’s a big if), you will be exhausted.
6. Have some sort of plan for what will go back on your empty walls. New paper (after prepping the wall, of course), paint, fabric…Bare walls are anathema to people like you and me. You will hate every minute of seeing nothing there. You know it’s true.
7. Have the name and number of a good painter tattooed on your leg. Sometimes, when walls are not prepared properly (Do you see a theme here?), paper removal techniques can totally ruin wallboard. In this case, you will need to have the drywall skim-coated by someone who knows how. I know my limitations. This CAN be done by a DIYer, but you might want to practice first. Maybe on the face of the person who hung the wallpaper without first sealing the drywall?

The bottom line is that the best part of stripping wallpaper comes when you are finished. When you don’t ever again have to look at what some other person thought was beautiful. You eventually get to look at your own beautiful. And it will be!

Coming next:  A simple how-to on stripping wallpaper.

Finally, my um…frugal-when-it-comes-to-himself husband bought himself a fun car. It is a Jeep Wrangler and really is a blast to ride around in. (He has no desire to go “mudding,” I think…He was not looking for anything except the wind in his face. With a back seat.) Anyway, he got a great deal for a used car, and more importantly, he is one happy camper.

Even while he was negotiating, he knew we would have a storage problem. Where to put a hard top for at least six months of the year? We have a barely-two-car garage and all of the stuff, necessary and not-so-necessary, that comes with 21 years of marriage, two children, and a dog. His immediate thought [read “wish”] was to add another garage. This was not going to happen.

He began looking up. In prayer, you might think? No. Well, maybe…But definitely in problem-solving mode. Seeing our suspended bikes led him to the idea of suspending the hard top. He envisioned the contraption, then drew it up. He consulted “the Google,” and, lo-and-behold, some other idea-thieves had envisioned something similar first! I hate it when that happens.

He tweaked his own plan and improved on theirs (at least, I think so). And here it is:

Pure Genius.

The project required a little bit of creativity in the attic—2×4 bracing, some hooks, a 2×4 for support below, and four heavy-duty straps. It takes two or three people to raise and lower–not because of the 100 pound weight, but for stability and leveling. We will probably only do that a couple of times a year. Pretty cool—and cheap. Around $35 for the project. When “genius” is under $100, I am also a happy camper.

In the beginning there was nothing.  God said, “Let there be light!”  And there was light.  There was still nothing, but you could see it a whole lot better.  ~Ellen DeGeneres

While lighting might not be the least expensive way to cozy up a room, it is one of the most impactful. Light invites us in and holds us there. Light brightens the space and can have a profound effect on attitude. I love driving in my neighborhood in the evening when people have turned on lights, both inside and out. Not in a weird, creepy way…It just lets me know there is life in there.

There are two different approaches to lighting which vary widely in cost and effort. The easiest (and therefore, my favorite) is to purchase lamps to plug into pre-existing sockets. They come in a wide variety of styles and prices. High-style, low-price used to be the equivalent of cheaply made. Manufacturers and retailers have come a long way, though, and now you can find inexpensive lamps that look good, feel solid, and as an added bonus, will not catch on fire!

My favorite lamp stores are Hobby Lobby, Lowe’s, Home Depot, HomeGoods, Target, Garden Ridge, and Bed, Bath, and Beyond. When you shop, think about the use of the lamp (will it be used for reading or ambiance) and the room where it will be used. Think about style and color, height and practicality. If you choose a classic style over a trendy one, then you might be able to use it for years and in many different rooms. Go for trendy, and it will look dated almost immediately. Look through magazines to find lamps that you love and take clippings with you. Target might have a lamp that is oh-so-close in style to that picture from Southern Living but for a fraction of the cost. I really love small lamps, generally under $10, that can be used in a powder room, a dark kitchen corner, or on a small desk. 

The second, more expensive, approach to lighting is to either change existing fixtures or install fixtures in empty spaces. For most of us, this involves hiring an electrician, but in some rooms, it would be well worth the cost. For instance, in my kitchen, the builder had installed a ceiling fan over the table and a lovely, fluorescent garage fixture over the island. I hated the fluorescent box from day one and while the ceiling fan was OK, it was not my taste. We bought some canned, recessed lights for the cooking area, and a cute chandelier for the eating area. (see Fabric Lamp Shade post) The fixtures were inexpensive (Lowe’s) and while the electrician’s expertise was not cheap, it was worth it. I love the difference the changes made in the room.

We recently replaced the foyer chandelier (hired out due to fear of falling) and four hallway ceiling fixtures. (see before and after pictures) My husband and son changed the existing fixtures, and it probably saved us $125. It is not difficult to do, but you must turn off the electricity at the breaker box and have the

ability to hold something over your head for a time. It took them about 3 hours total (longer than expected) because the fixtures were difficult to mount. Some screw problem; not user error, I am told. The wire connections were very easy. The cost of the fixtures was only $33 each (not the foyer chandelier…It was $175ish). They provide a lot of light. Which now shows me that we need to paint…and patch trim…and replace the dining room light…and a dimmer would be nice…

As that wise philosopher, Roseanne Rosanna Danna said, “It’s always somethin’.”

(The chandelier looks a little slanted…I think it’s the photographer…The electrician was completely sober.)